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Most Valuable Scrap Metals: The Definitive Ranked Guide (2026)

A ranked breakdown of the most valuable scrap metals — from copper and brass down to steel — with current price ranges, sourcing tips, and strategies to maximize your payout.

Updated April 1, 2026 15 min read
Key Takeaway
  • Copper is king — clean #1 copper wire consistently fetches the highest per-pound price of any common scrap metal, often 3-4x more than aluminum.
  • Sorting and cleaning your metals before you go to the yard can increase your payout by 20-50%. A mixed bin of "dirty" metal always gets the lowest grade price.
  • Non-ferrous metals (ones that don't stick to a magnet) are almost always worth more than ferrous metals like steel and iron.
  • Specialty items like catalytic converters, circuit boards, and lithium batteries can be extremely valuable but often require selling to specialized buyers.

Not all scrap metal is created equal. Walk into any scrap yard with a mixed load and you’ll get a fraction of what you could earn if you sorted by type and grade. The difference between a scrapper who makes gas money and one who makes a genuine side income comes down to knowing what’s valuable, where to find it, and how to present it.

This guide ranks every common scrap metal from most to least valuable, gives you current price ranges, tells you where to source each one, and shares the grading details that matter at the scale window. If you’re brand new to scrapping, start with What Is the Magnet Test? — it’s the fastest way to sort ferrous from non-ferrous in the field.

The Master Ranking: Scrap Metals by Value

Here’s the big picture. Prices fluctuate with commodity markets — driven by benchmarks like the London Metal Exchange (LME) — but the relative ranking stays remarkably stable. These ranges reflect typical U.S. scrap yard payouts in early 2026.

RankMetalTypical Price Range (per lb)Magnet TestBest Sources
1Copper (#1 bare bright)$3.00 - $4.25Non-magneticWire, plumbing, motors
2Brass (yellow/red)$1.80 - $2.80Non-magneticPlumbing fittings, valves, keys
3Copper-bearing (motors, transformers)$1.00 - $2.50MixedElectric motors, power transformers
4Nickel alloys$2.00 - $5.00+VariesMarine hardware, medical equipment
5Stainless steel (304/316)$0.40 - $0.80Weakly magneticAppliances, kitchen equipment, piping
6Aluminum (clean)$0.40 - $0.90Non-magneticCans, siding, wheels, extrusions
7Lead$0.30 - $0.55Non-magneticWheel weights, batteries, cable sheathing
8Zinc (die-cast)$0.35 - $0.55Non-magneticDie-cast parts, plumbing fixtures
9Steel / Cast iron$0.04 - $0.12MagneticStructural steel, appliances, vehicles
How to read these prices: Scrap prices change daily based on commodity markets. The ranges above represent typical yard payouts — your local yard may pay more or less depending on region, volume, and current demand. Check our scrap metal prices page for the latest market data, and always call ahead to confirm rates before hauling a big load.

1. Copper — The Undisputed Champion

Typical yard price: $3.00 - $4.25/lb (bare bright) | $2.20 - $3.50/lb (#1 copper) | $1.80 - $3.00/lb (#2 copper)

Copper is the most valuable common scrap metal, and it isn’t particularly close. If you’re looking to sell copper, yards in major cities like Houston and Los Angeles tend to offer the most competitive prices. When commodity markets are strong, clean bare bright copper can push past $4/lb. That’s why experienced scrappers will spend 30 minutes stripping insulation off wire — the labor more than pays for itself.

Copper Grades That Matter

Bare bright (#1 copper wire): Uncoated, unalloyed, 14-gauge or heavier copper wire with no solder, paint, or insulation. This is the top dollar grade. If it looks like a shiny new penny, it qualifies.

#1 copper (pipe/bus bar): Clean copper tubing, bus bars, and clippings. No solder joints, no fittings, no paint, no insulation. Must be unalloyed.

#2 copper: Copper with some contamination — solder joints on pipe, painted copper, copper with fittings still attached, or thinner gauge wire. Still valuable, just docked for the impurities.

Insulated copper wire: Priced by estimated copper recovery rate. Thick romex (60-70% copper) pays much better than thin thermostat wire (30-40% copper). Stripping it yourself upgrades it to bare bright — see our copper wire stripping guide for techniques.

Where to Find Copper

  • Residential construction/demolition: Romex wire (NM-B), copper plumbing pipe, ground wires
  • HVAC systems: Refrigerant linesets, condenser coils (copper/aluminum mix)
  • Electrical panels: Heavy gauge wire, bus bars, ground bars
  • Appliances: Compressors (sealed units contain copper windings), power cords
  • Electronics: Power supply transformers, heavy gauge cords
Pro tip: Copper plumbing pipe with solder joints is #2 copper. But if you cut off the joints (just an inch on each side) and keep the clean sections separate, those clean pieces grade as #1. The small solder sections can go in the #2 bin. A hacksaw and 5 minutes can bump a pile of pipe from $2.50/lb to $3.50/lb.
Warning: Never burn insulation off copper wire. It's illegal in most jurisdictions, releases toxic fumes, and actually reduces the value — yards will reject or heavily discount "burned wire" because it oxidizes and darkens the copper surface. Strip it mechanically instead.

2. Brass — The Overlooked Earner

Typical yard price: $1.80 - $2.80/lb (yellow brass) | $2.20 - $3.20/lb (red brass)

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, so it makes sense that it ranks just behind pure copper. Many new scrappers walk right past brass because they don’t recognize it. That’s a mistake — brass is heavy, common, and adds up fast. Look for brass recycling in Dallas or Philadelphia for local pricing.

Brass Grades That Matter

Yellow brass: The most common type. About 60-70% copper, 30-40% zinc. Bright gold color. Found in plumbing fittings, shell casings, keys, and decorative hardware.

Red brass: Higher copper content (80-85%). Darker, more reddish tone. Found in older valves, water meters, and fire hydrant fittings. Pays a premium over yellow brass.

Brass shells/casings: Ammunition casings are almost always yellow brass. Some yards buy them separately; gun ranges are a common source.

Where to Find Brass

  • Plumbing: Shut-off valves, hose bibs, compression fittings, older faucet bodies
  • HVAC: Service valves, flare fittings, expansion valves
  • Locks and keys: Standard house keys, padlock bodies, deadbolt components
  • Decorative hardware: Door knockers, cabinet pulls, light fixture parts
  • Ammunition: Spent brass casings (check local regulations)
Pro tip: Use the magnet test to confirm brass. Real brass is completely non-magnetic. If a "brass" fitting sticks to a magnet, it's brass-plated steel and worth far less. Brass is also notably heavier than steel for its size — pick it up and you'll feel the density.
Red brass vs. yellow brass: Scratch the surface with a file or on concrete. Red brass shows a distinctly reddish-pink color underneath, while yellow brass stays golden. The price difference (often $0.40-0.60/lb) makes it worth sorting them separately.

3. Copper-Bearing Materials

Typical yard price: $1.00 - $2.50/lb (varies widely by type and copper content)

This category covers items that contain significant copper but aren’t pure copper — primarily electric motors, transformers, and copper/aluminum coils. Yards price these based on estimated copper recovery.

Types and Values

Electric motors: Small sealed motors (from appliances, power tools, pumps) contain copper windings and are bought as whole units. Price depends on size — larger motors with more copper pay better. Some scrappers break motors to extract the copper, but this is labor-intensive and only worthwhile for large motors.

Power transformers: The heavy box-shaped components in electronics, HVAC equipment, and industrial applications. Copper-wound transformers are worth significantly more than aluminum-wound ones. A magnet won’t help here — you need to look at the wire gauge and color.

Copper/aluminum coils (ACR coils): Air conditioning condensers and evaporator coils contain copper tubing with aluminum fins. Yards buy these as “ACR” or “copper/aluminum” — the price reflects the mixed content. Clean coils (fins intact, no steel brackets) pay more.

Where to Find Copper-Bearing Items

  • Curbside appliances: Window AC units, dehumidifiers, refrigerators (compressors + coils)
  • Workshops/garages: Dead power tools, bench grinders, shop compressors
  • HVAC change-outs: Condensing units, air handlers, mini-split systems
  • Industrial sites: Three-phase motors, large transformers, pump assemblies
Sealed units caution: Refrigerator compressors, AC compressors, and other sealed units may still contain refrigerant. Federal law (Section 608 of the Clean Air Act) prohibits venting refrigerants. Most scrap yards accept sealed units whole and handle recovery — do NOT puncture or cut open sealed systems.

4. Nickel Alloys

Typical yard price: $2.00 - $5.00+/lb (varies significantly by alloy)

Nickel alloys are high-value but less commonly encountered. The USGS tracks nickel as a critical mineral, and when you do find nickel alloys, they can be the most profitable items in your load pound-for-pound.

Types and Values

Stainless 316 (marine grade): Contains about 10-14% nickel and 2-3% molybdenum. Used in marine hardware, chemical processing equipment, and high-end kitchen sinks. Worth noticeably more than standard 304 stainless.

Inconel / Hastelloy: Nickel-chromium superalloys used in jet engine components, chemical plant piping, and high-temperature applications. These can fetch $3-8/lb or more. Rare in residential scrap but valuable when found.

Monel: A nickel-copper alloy (about 67% nickel) used in marine applications, chemical processing, and older plumbing. Non-magnetic and very corrosion-resistant.

Where to Find Nickel Alloys

  • Marine environments: Boat hardware, propeller shafts, through-hull fittings
  • Chemical/industrial plants: Piping, valves, reactor vessels
  • Aerospace scrap: Turbine blades, exhaust components
  • Medical equipment: Surgical instruments, implant materials
Identifying nickel alloys: The magnet test is your first clue. Pure nickel is weakly magnetic, but most nickel alloys (Inconel, Monel, 316 stainless) are non-magnetic. They're also notably heavier than regular stainless steel. When in doubt, ask your yard if they can do a handheld XRF scan — it gives an exact alloy breakdown in seconds. The price difference justifies the effort.

5. Stainless Steel

Typical yard price: $0.40 - $0.80/lb (304 grade) | $0.55 - $1.00/lb (316 grade)

Stainless steel is one of the most commonly found non-ferrous metals, and yards in cities like New York and Columbus buy it regularly. It straddles an interesting middle ground — significantly more valuable than regular steel but less than copper or brass. The key with stainless is volume. It’s heavy, it’s everywhere, and it adds up.

Stainless Grades That Matter

304 stainless (18/8): The workhorse grade. 18% chromium, 8% nickel. Used in most kitchen appliances, sinks, food equipment, and architectural trim. Slightly magnetic (a magnet may weakly attract it, especially at cut edges or bends where the metal is work-hardened).

316 stainless (marine grade): Higher nickel content plus molybdenum for corrosion resistance. Used in marine hardware, chemical processing, medical equipment, and outdoor coastal installations. Non-magnetic and pays a premium.

400 series stainless: Higher chromium, lower nickel. Strongly magnetic. Used in automotive exhaust, some cutlery, and industrial applications. Pays less than 300 series because of the lower nickel content.

Where to Find Stainless Steel

  • Kitchen remodels: Sinks, dishwashers (tubs), commercial kitchen equipment, prep tables
  • Restaurants going out of business: Walk-in cooler panels, shelving, exhaust hoods
  • Medical/dental offices: Instrument trays, carts, sinks
  • Industrial facilities: Piping, tanks, food processing conveyors
  • Automotive: Exhaust components (usually 400 series)
Pro tip: The magnet test helps but isn't definitive with stainless. 304 can be weakly magnetic at cut edges, and 400 series is strongly magnetic. A spark test is more reliable — stainless produces short, dark red sparks compared to carbon steel's long, bright white sparks. Your yard's XRF analyzer gives the final answer.

6. Aluminum

Typical yard price: $0.40 - $0.90/lb (clean) | $0.25 - $0.50/lb (dirty/mixed) | $0.60 - $1.20/lb (clean extrusions/clips)

Aluminum is the scrapper’s bread and butter. It’s everywhere, it’s light, and it’s always worth picking up. Check aluminum recycling in Chicago or Phoenix for example pricing in your area. The challenge is that aluminum prices per pound are moderate, so you need volume — and proper sorting makes a big difference.

Aluminum Grades That Matter

Clean aluminum extrusions/clips: Unpainted, clean 6061/6063 aluminum pieces. Window frames, door frames, and structural shapes without screws, rubber, or inserts. This is the top-paying common aluminum grade.

Aluminum cans (UBC): The classic. Always in demand. Most states pay $0.40-0.60/lb, and some have deposit programs that pay more per unit. Crush them to save space.

Cast aluminum: Engine blocks, transmission cases, outdoor furniture frames, grill components. Heavier and denser than sheet aluminum. Pays mid-range.

Aluminum siding/gutters: Painted aluminum. The paint docks the price a bit, but it’s still worth collecting — thin gauge but large surface area means reasonable weight.

Dirty/irony aluminum: Aluminum with steel screws, rubber gaskets, plastic inserts, or other contaminants. Pays the lowest aluminum price. Worth cleaning up if the volume justifies the time.

Where to Find Aluminum

  • Construction sites: Window frames, door frames, trim, siding, soffit, gutters, flashing
  • Automotive: Wheels/rims (very popular — a single set of alloy wheels can be 50+ lbs), intake manifolds, valve covers, radiators
  • Curbside trash: Lawn chairs, outdoor tables, storm doors, screen frames
  • Kitchen/beverage: Cans (obviously), pots and pans (check with magnet — some are steel), baking sheets
Pro tip: Aluminum wheels (rims) from vehicles are among the easiest and most profitable aluminum items to scrap. A single passenger car wheel weighs 15-25 lbs, and a set of four can bring $30-80 at the yard. Tire shops often have piles of damaged or trade-in wheels — build a relationship and they may save them for you.
Don't confuse aluminum with pot metal: Some cast items that look like aluminum are actually zinc die-cast (pot metal). Zinc is lighter-colored, slightly heavier for its size, and breaks with a brittle snap rather than bending. If you scratch the surface, zinc shows a darker gray compared to aluminum's bright silver. When in doubt, let the yard test it.

7. Lead

Typical yard price: $0.30 - $0.55/lb

Lead is dense, soft, and easy to identify — you can scratch it with a fingernail and it leaves a gray streak. It’s toxic, so handle it with gloves and wash your hands afterward, but it’s a consistently valued scrap metal.

Types and Values

Lead wheel weights: The clip-on weights used to balance tires. Tire shops generate piles of these during rebalancing. Note: many newer vehicles use zinc or steel wheel weights now, so check with a magnet (lead is non-magnetic) and look for the soft, gray appearance.

Lead-acid batteries: Car, truck, marine, and UPS batteries contain lead plates and are one of the most recycled products in the world. Most yards and auto parts stores buy them. Typical price: $5-15 per battery depending on size.

Lead pipe/sheet: Found in very old plumbing (pre-1950s), roofing flashings on older buildings, and radiation shielding in medical/dental offices.

Cable sheathing: Old telephone and power cables sometimes have lead outer jackets. Heavy and valuable if you find a batch.

Safety first: Lead is toxic. Always wear gloves when handling lead items, and never eat, drink, or smoke while working with lead scrap. Wash hands thoroughly afterward. Keep lead scrap away from children. Lead-acid batteries contain sulfuric acid — transport them upright, don't stack them, and contain any leaks.

8. Zinc

Typical yard price: $0.35 - $0.55/lb (die-cast) | $0.30 - $0.45/lb (mixed zinc)

Zinc is another often-overlooked metal. It shows up primarily as die-cast parts (also called pot metal or zamak) and as a coating on galvanized steel.

Types and Values

Zinc die-cast: Faucet handles, cabinet hardware, small automotive parts (carburetors, door handles on older vehicles), decorative fixtures. Die-cast zinc breaks with a crystalline, brittle fracture and is a dull gray color inside.

Zinc sheet/plates: Used in roofing, battery casings, and industrial applications. Less common than die-cast.

Zinc wheel weights: The replacement for lead wheel weights in newer vehicles. Lighter and harder than lead. A magnet won’t stick to them.

Where to Find Zinc

  • Plumbing: Decorative faucet bodies and handles (the cheaper brands are often zinc die-cast)
  • Automotive: Older carburetors, door handles, interior trim pieces
  • Hardware: Cabinet pulls, hinges, decorative brackets
  • Tire shops: Zinc wheel weights are increasingly common
Zinc vs. aluminum — the quick test: Both are non-magnetic and silvery-gray. Zinc die-cast is noticeably heavier than aluminum for its size, has a duller finish, and snaps or cracks when bent rather than flexing. If you scratch the surface, zinc shows a darker gray compared to aluminum's bright silver. When in doubt, let the yard test it.

9. Steel/Cast Iron

Typical yard price: $0.04 - $0.12/lb (prepared steel) | $0.08 - $0.14/lb (cast iron)

Steel and iron are the most abundant scrap metals by weight. The per-pound price is low, but when you’re hauling thousands of pounds in a trailer, it’s reliable money. Steel is where volume-based scrappers make their living.

Grades That Matter

Prepared steel (P&S): Cut to yard specs (usually under 5 feet and under 1/4” thick). Clean, no attachments. This is standard structural steel, shelving, file cabinets, etc.

Heavy melting steel (HMS): Thicker steel — 1/4” and above. I-beams, heavy plate, industrial equipment frames. Usually pays slightly more than light-gauge steel.

Cast iron: Engine blocks (non-aluminum), brake rotors and drums, radiators (old style), bathtubs, wood stove bodies, sewer pipe. Denser and slightly more valuable than plain steel. Breaks rather than bends.

Sheet iron/tin: Thin steel — car body panels, roofing, ductwork, filing cabinets. Lightest grade, lowest price per pound, but easy to accumulate in volume.

Cars/vehicles: Whole vehicles (end-of-life) are priced by the ton. A typical car brings $150-400 depending on weight, current steel prices, and whether you’ve already stripped the valuable non-ferrous components.

Where to Find Steel/Iron

  • Literally everywhere. Construction debris, fencing, appliances, vehicles, agricultural equipment, playground equipment, industrial machinery.
Pro tip: The real money in steel scrapping is efficiency, not per-pound price. Focus on large, dense items — engine blocks, I-beams, heavy equipment. Hauling a trailer of light sheet metal for $30 is rarely worth the fuel and time compared to a few heavy items that total the same weight.
The magnet test at work: Steel and iron are the metals that do stick firmly to a magnet. If you're sorting a mixed pile, start by pulling everything magnetic to one side — that's your ferrous pile (steel/iron). Everything that doesn't stick is non-ferrous and almost certainly worth more per pound. Learn more in our magnet test guide.

Specialty Items with Hidden Value

Some scrap items don’t fit neatly into the metal-by-metal ranking because their value comes from specific components, precious metal content, or specialized recycling streams.

Catalytic Converters

Catalytic converters contain platinum, palladium, and/or rhodium — precious metals worth hundreds to thousands of dollars per ounce. A single converter can be worth $50-300+ depending on the vehicle it came from. OEM converters from trucks and SUVs tend to pay the most; small aftermarket “universal” converters may only be worth $10-20.

Most scrap yards won’t buy converters directly — you’ll need a specialized buyer. Browse catalytic converter recycling in Los Angeles or Houston to find specialists near you. Check our catalytic converter scrap value guide for details on pricing and finding buyers.

Legal warning: Many states have enacted strict laws around catalytic converter sales due to theft concerns. You may need proof of ownership, a business license, or documentation of the source vehicle. Know your local laws before trying to sell converters.

E-Waste and Circuit Boards

Printed circuit boards (PCBs) contain gold, silver, palladium, and copper. Computer motherboards, server boards, and telecommunications equipment can be worth $3-12/lb to specialized e-waste buyers. RAM sticks and CPU chips are even more valuable per unit.

Consumer electronics (phones, tablets, laptops) also contain recoverable metals but are generally better sold to electronics recyclers who handle the full device.

Batteries

  • Lead-acid (car/truck): $5-15 each at most yards and auto parts stores
  • Lithium-ion (EV, power tool, laptop): Increasingly valuable; specialty recyclers pay by type and size
  • Nickel-metal hydride (hybrid vehicle): Specialty item — hybrid battery packs can bring $50-200+

Whole Vehicles

An end-of-life vehicle is worth more than just its steel weight. Before sending one to the crusher, strip: catalytic converter(s), aluminum wheels, copper wiring harness, battery, alternator (copper inside), starter motor (copper inside), AC compressor, and radiator (copper/aluminum). The stripped components can easily double what the car brings versus selling it whole.


Maximizing Your Payout

The difference between casual scrapping and profitable scrapping comes down to preparation. Follow these steps before every yard visit.

1
Sort everything by metal type. Never bring a mixed load and let the yard sort it — they'll give you the lowest-value price for the entire bin. Separate copper, brass, aluminum, stainless, and steel into their own containers. Use the magnet test as your first-pass sorting tool.
2
Grade within each metal type. Don't just separate copper from brass — separate #1 copper from #2 copper, bare bright from insulated, yellow brass from red brass. Each sub-grade has a different price, and mixing them gets you the lower price for the whole lot.
3
Clean and prepare your material. Remove steel screws from aluminum, cut solder joints off copper pipe, strip insulation from heavy-gauge wire. Our preparing scrap metal guide covers this in detail. A few minutes of prep can jump you up an entire price grade.
4
Know the prices before you go. Check current scrap prices on our prices page and use the scrap calculator to estimate your load value. Call the yard to confirm their current buy prices — they can change daily.
5
Build relationships with your local yards. Scrappers who show up regularly with clean, well-sorted material often negotiate better prices. Yard operators appreciate not having to re-sort your load. Use our scrap yard directory to find yards in your area, compare reviews, and identify yards that specialize in the metals you bring most often.
6
Time your sales when possible. Scrap metal prices follow commodity markets. If you have storage space, hold non-ferrous metals when prices dip and sell when they rebound. Steel is usually not worth storing — the low per-pound value means storage costs outweigh any price recovery. Watch copper and aluminum futures for trends.

Finding the Best Yard Near You

Different yards specialize in different materials, and prices vary more than you might expect between competitors in the same city. Some yards focus on high-volume ferrous metals and offer mediocre non-ferrous prices, while others cater to non-ferrous scrappers and pay top dollar for sorted copper and aluminum.

Use our scrap yard search to find and compare yards in your area — including cities like Miami, San Antonio, and Phoenix. Check which metals they accept, read reviews from other scrappers, and call ahead to confirm current prices before loading up your truck.

The most valuable scrap metal is the one you correctly identify, properly sort, and sell to the right buyer. Now get out there and start separating your metals.

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